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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.